A VERY RARE GENTLEMAN'S YELLOW GOLD ENAMEL WRISTWATCH, BY UNIVERSAL GENÈVE

A VERY RARE GENTLEMAN'S YELLOW GOLD ENAMEL WRISTWATCH, BY UNIVERSAL GENÈVE
The cloisonné enamel dial depicting Neptune holding a trident and riding two seahorses, with applied gold dagger numerals and hands, to the square curved case, black leather strap and gold buckle, mounted in 18K yellow gold, circa 1945, automatic nickel lever movement, case, dial and movement signed UNIVERSAL GENEVE, Swiss, with French hallmarks and maker's marks, ref no. 1272336, movement no. 139, case no. 10201, case 30.00 x 30.00 mm, length 19.00 cm


Universal Genève was founded in Switzerland’s smallest city, LeCole, in 1894 as ‘Universal Watch’. It wasn’t until later, when they relocated to Geneva that they became Universal Genève. Since its establishment, Universal is committed to compose all movements in-house. Their remarkably fine quality timepieces and perpetual style that can rival neighboring companies such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Audemars Piguet, are highly appreciated by collectors over the world. 


Lot 2393, featuring an extremely rare work of art from Universal Genève, with a beautifully decorated enamel dial of Neptune, the Roman god of sea, riding the seahorses and vigorously holding his trident, in the tempestuous ocean. The dial is believed to be the work of the most celebrated enamel artist, Ms. Nelly Richards who worked at Stern Frères from the late 1940s to 1950s. Her signature cloisonné enamel dial includes Neptune, dragons and maps, which are also commissioned by Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega and others.


Fabricating a cloisonné enamel dial is painstakingly difficult and labor intensive, especially one with such complex composition and diverse color palette is awfully time-consuming. The cloisons are molded meticulously with fine gold wires, to create an outline of the artisan’s design and separate various enamel regions. Multiple layers of the enamel are then applied precisely to different regions and successively fired in a kiln. This process would be repeated numerous times until the desired color intensity, light effects as well as the gradation of the enamel are achieved.



Auction records
13 May 2017  Geneva  Sold Price CHF394,000
An extremely rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting Neptune, By Rolex


28 November 2016  Hong Kong  Sold Price HKD5,840,000
A highly rare, possibly unique and exceptional yellow gold square wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting Neptune, By Rolex


12 November 2012  Geneva  Sold Price CHF243,000
An extremely fine, rare and attractive 18K gold self-winding wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting Neptune, By Omega